What to Eat in Emilia-Romagna

The world-famous Parmigiano-Reggiano, aged balsamic vinegar, and prosciutto di Parma all come from Emilia-Romagna, and the region is home to more than a few dishes that are quintessentially thought of when the world thinks of Italian cuisine (lasagne, tortellini, and anything featuring these prized DOP-certified ingredients).

But there are plenty of dishes from both the emiliana and romagnola traditions – which still today sometimes maintain a certain degree of separation between their culinary identities (the regions were joined as one as recently as 1948) – that are just as treasured locally even if they get less PR outside of Italy.

Beyond Modena and Parma (which have long been popular destinations for their gastronomic fame), cities like Ravenna, Ferrara, Piacenza, Rimini are all worth visiting not only for beautiful architecture and a slice of local life away from the crowds of Bologna, but also for delicious culinary gems that are waiting to be discovered. Here’s where to eat when you’re exploring the region:

Gnocco Fritto and Prosciutto di Parma: La Bicicletta, Modena

In many parts of Emilia-Romagna, you can indulge in a classic antipasto known as the gnocco fritto (or sometimes torta fritta), a rectangular, ruffly-edged puff of fried bread dough served with local salumi. The most popular of salumi in these parts is of course prosciutto di Parma, at least in terms of fame – but you sould also try culatello di Zibello, lesser known but a cult favorite among locals.

While the gnocco fritto is similar to the coccoli and prosciutto appetizer in Florence, it is arguably even better in Emilia-Romagna – not only because this is true prosciutto territory, but also because you can pair the gnocco fritto with the region’s abundant local sparkling wines, which are much more interesting and varied than your typical Prosecco.

Both white and red local grapes are made into vino frizzante in Emilia-Romagna, including Malvasia, and the greatest number of Lambrusco bottles you’ll ever see on one wine list. Start your evening off with a local fizz alongside a gnocco fritto at La Bicicletta, a wine bar in the center of Modena.

Tortellini in Crema di Parmigiano: Cucina del Condominio, Ravenna

Sharing the limelight (and DOP product status) with prosciutto in this region is Parmigiano Reggiano, the world-famous cheese made in the province of Parma (west of Bologna). While you’re surely accustomed to seeing Parmigiano in other parts of Italy, it’s given a whole other dimension of worship in Emilia-Romagna and put to many more culinary uses besides being grated on top of pasta.

Often you’ll see crema di Parmigiano, a fondue-like sauce of melted Parmigiano cooked with milk, used as a warm, decadent sauce to dress fresh pasta such as tortellini. It’s not unusual to see crema di Parmigiano topped with a few drops of aceto di balsamico, Emilia-Romagna’s other favorite ingredient. This dish is typical throughout the region, fortunately, so try it at the local restaurant Cucina del Condominio, which offers a plethora of filled pastas, when you go to Ravenna. Everyone should go to Ravenna.

Cappelletti di Zucca (con Amaretti): Ristorante Cocchi, Parma

Cappelletti differ from their cousins in the tortelli family in shape, size, and filling – bigger than tortellini (and closer in size to tortelli), each little envelope of cappelletti is pinched together at its base rather than left open like a ring, giving cappelletti the name “little hats.”

Sometimes filled with meat and cheese just like their tortelli cousins (and served in broth in some parts of Romagna), the more exciting preparation of cappelletti in western cities like Parma and Modena is cappelletti di zucca – stuffed with a pumpkin filling, ever so slightly sweetened with crumbled amaretti cookies mixed in, and most often simply tossed in butter and sage.

Ristorante Cocchi is the crème de la crème of Parma’s restaurants and makes a deliciously quintessential plate of these cappelletti, and they’re especially perfect in the cold weather after exploring Parma’s stunning cathedral and other wonderful sites.

Anolini in Brodo: Osteria del Trentino – Da Marco, Piacenza

Anolini are another delicious form of filled pasta, but they are lesser known than the family of tortelli and cappelletti – mostly because anolini are more common in the smaller, off-the-beaten-track cities and towns of Emilia-Romagna.

In fact, anolini, or “little rings,” are particularly local to Piacenza, a city in the northernmost part of the region (boasting an impressive Romanesque cathedral, an archaeological museum with Etruscan and ancient Roman artifacts, and even the Galleria d’Arte Moderna featuring Italian works from the nineteenth century onward).

Anolini are similar to tortellini but, somewhat ironically, are little puffy disks more than they are “rings,” with a meat-based filling sealed inside. Like passatelli pasta, anolini are often given the brodo treatment and served in a piping hot broth.

In Piacenza, Osteria del Trentino is a lovely example of traditional cuisine in a contemporary setting, serving the platonic ideal of anolini in brodo as well as other classics.

Lasagna Verde: Ristorante Da Enzo, Modena

Did you know some of the most traditional lasagne you can ever eat in Emilia-Romagna is actually green? More often than not, you’ll find lasagne listed on menus as lasagne verde, thanks to the spinach-infused fresh pasta dough.

The sheets of pasta are traditionally layered with bechamel and ragù bolognese, the only meat sauce you’ll really ever find in the entire region (even if recipes differ – and inspire arguments – from town to town, even within 5 kilometers’ distance), though sometimes there are vegetarian variations. Lasagne eaten at the source is lighter and more delicate and lighter than you imagine – the pasta sheets are so paper-thin that every bite almost melts in your mouth.

Da Enzo is the spot for eating like a local in Modena, and their rendition of lasagne verde is so perfectly quintessential that it might ruin you for all other lasagne in life.

Pesce e Frutti di Mare/Fish and Seafood: Trattoria La Marianna, Rimini

While it’s difficult to get tired of the beautiful filled pastas that comprise the emiliana tradition, which are especially comforting in the winter months, the east side of the region enjoys a stretch of coastline along the Adriatic Sea that is great for exploring in the summer. 

The coastal cities and nearby provinces in this part of the region enjoy many seafood dishes that characterize traditional romagnola cuisine, and one of the best cities to explore on the coast is Rimini, which dates back to the days of the Roman Empire and today is known for its clubs and night life, great beaches, and for being the hometown of the famous filmmaker Federico Fellini.

Dig into the fish and seafood specialties at Trattoria La Marianna, from passatelli pasta with prawns and mushrooms (a typical romagnola treatment for the thick noodle) to tagliatelle with clams (your chance to pair vongole with handmade pasta instead of southern regions’ spaghetti) to traditional grilled sole (sogliole), which is popular in the area.

Piadina Romagnola: Dalla Lella, Rimini

It’s not only the night life that makes Rimini buzz with energy. Sometimes the piadina shops seem like the city’s hottest clubs, with hungry crowds queuing up for piping hot piadine – flaky flatbreads that are rolled into a large circle, griddled, and stuffed most classically with prosciutto cotto, rucola (arugula or rocket), and squacquerone, a fresh, melty cow’s milk cheese – not only by day but much of the night.

Try a piadina at Dalla Lella, one of the most beloved places in Rimini for this sandwich-like street food, starting with the classic combination of fillings before exploring the wider variety. You’ll also see piadine in other cities on the Romagna side of the region, such as Ravenna and Ferrara.

Pasticcio di Maccheroni: Trattoria da Noemi, Ferrara

Ferrara, a charming city in the northeast, is home to several culinary specialties that you won’t find in many other places in the region. One of these is the pasticcio di maccheroni, a savory pie filled with a rich mixture of pasta, bechamel, mushrooms, meat, and often truffles, a recipe believed to date back to the sixteenth century when Ferrara was a flourishing Renaissance city. Trattoria da Noemi is a family-run restaurant housed in a late medieval space, recognized by Slow Food and Michelin, where you can try this very traditional ferrarese dish for yourself.

Gelato with Balsamic Vinegar: Trattoria Amerigo

The Modenese locals won’t exactly tell you that balsamic vinegar goes with everything (in fact, they often argue that it’s not the best choice for dressing a salad) – but they will tell you it’s great on gelato. Don’t go thinking this should mean any flavor at all – the pairing is meant to be elegant and simple, much like proper aceto di balsamico, so typically gelaterie and restaurants will choose fior di latte as the blank-slate flavor to drizzle with the thick, syrupy vinegar. The result is a perfect balance of creamy, not too sweet gelato and rich, punchy but well-rounded balsamico.

Round off your meal with this special dolce at the historic restaurant Amerigo (founded in 1934) south of Bologna and Modena, an especially good place to eat after some vineyard tours in the area.

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