Podcast episodes, Rome

Episode #244: How to eat like a Roman

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In Rome, food is not just a meal but a way of life. Eating like a Roman is about more than just tasting the dishes – it’s about understanding the traditions, local ingredients, and the passion behind the food. One of the best ways to connect with this vibrant food scene is through a guided food tour. These tours offer a unique, behind-the-scenes experience, allowing you to explore bustling markets, hidden eateries, and family-owned spots that locals cherish. A food tour in Rome isn’t just about eating; it’s about discovering the soul of the city through its cuisine. Buon appetito!

Summary

In this episode, we welcome Denyse Pantaleo of Devour Tours, an award-winning food tour company. Devour’s company ethos celebrates the passion for food, the diversity, and how it connects to a city’s history. With food being a constant topic of conversation in Italy, a food tour is an extension of that. Food tours in Rome show a different side to the city and the culture, as you discover wonderful local produce and dishes. Denyse shares hidden and not-so-hidden gems in Rome’s vibrant food scene – from the best restaurants, street food and markets, to savoring street food delicacies like the mouth-watering Suppli.

Devour Tours offers 3 delicious food experience tours of Rome:

They also offer pasta making and pizza making at their custom-made cooking school in Rome.

 

What you’ll learn in this episode

  • Katy has known Denyse of Devour Tours for some time, having been on a few of her fantastic food tours in Rome. Denyse was originally from Treviso and has lived in Rome for 20 years and has designed food tours for various Italian cities with Devour Tours
  • Devour encourages people to explore cities through their culinary offerings, and like to focus on unique local eateries and supporting small family businesses
  • A common tourist mistake is over planning their short visits to Rome. Denyse recommends a slower pace -encouraging tourists to slow down and enjoy the city’s vibe
  • Denyse’s Favorite Spot for people-watching is Bar San Calisto in Trastevere with its old-fashioned charm and diverse mix of visitors
  • Trastevere has become more touristy but does maintain neighborhood gems like traditional, family-run Checco Er Carettiere restaurant and Enoteca Ferrera – run by sisters and along with great wine, offers traditional cuisine with twists
  • Testaccio is another great neighborhood to head for foodies – with a great market and fantastic restaurants
  • The large Prati Market (Mercato Trionfale) appears like a shopping mall outside but inside has amazing local produce like cheese and prosciutto and a true local vendor vibe. Campo de’ Fiori Market has transitioned from a local to a more tourist-oriented market but still retains some fruit and vegetable stalls
  • Artichokes were initially a street food, but are now mostly found in restaurants like Bona in the Jewish ghetto
  • Suppli is a Roman street food delight – a rice croquette filled with melted mozzarella. A good option for families and kids, with notable locations: Roscioli and Fiore. Pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) is another delicious street food option
  • When looking for a restaurant in Rome, stay away from places with someone out front beckoning you in, those with multi-lingual picture menus and avoid all the restaurants in the Trevi Fountain area (as the locals do)
  • There are some nice options in the Piazza Navona/Pantheon Area, such as a favorite of Denyse’s when she has visitors – Da Francesco and a great spot for wine is Vinaietto – they only have a few seats, but do as the locals and drink standing at the high tables
  • For those concerned about visiting during the Vatican Jubilee 2025 – you will see the city at its best but a few tips – book restaurants in advance, visit the Vatican early or late in the day and avoid big events (events calendar here)
  • Devour offer 3 food tours in Rome – Trastevere at Sunset: Rome Food & Wine Tour, Trastevere & Historic Center VIP Food Tour with Rooftop Spritz and Tastes & Traditions of Rome: Testaccio Food and Market Tour, as well as pasta and pizza making at their cooking school

Timeline Overview

  • 05:02 Denyse of Devour Tours recommends that tourists don’t over plan, rush around too much and miss Rome’s essence – but instead take some time to reflect on the city’s dynamic daily life and food culture
  • 09:51 Trastevere is great for morning strolls and evening dinners
  • 17:46 Enjoy quick and tasty and treats in the Pizza al taglio and Suppli that can be found on the city streets with no reservation needed
  • 25:20 Testaccio is an ancient food hub, and today is still great for its market, local take-out food and great restaurants
  • 34:19 Book tables in advance at central favorite Da Francesco
  • 38:43 Devour Tours offer a variety of food tours including street food, market and rooftop spritz experiences, as well as cooking classes at their custom-made cooking school

About our guest – Denyse Pantaleo

Denyse, a native of foggy Treviso – the hometown of tiramisu – is a professional chef and passionate food enthusiast.
She joined Walks in 2014 and has since shared her culinary expertise by teaching cooking classes both in person and online for eight years.

In 2022, Denyse took on the role of Devour product developer for Italy.
For Denyse, a recipe is more than just a list of ingredients and steps; it’s a living tradition, a secret passed down through generations, or a cherished experiment documented in a recipe notebook. Her love for pasta is unmatched, but she occasionally craves Asian cuisine, which serves as her comfort food and a flavorful reminder of her travels.

When she’s not developing new culinary experiences, Denyse enjoys revisiting the flavors of her journeys through her favorite dishes and discovering new places to eat and drink in Rome.

Follow Devour Tours here

Italian places, foods and concepts mentioned

Places

  • Campo de’ Fiori – literally  meaning “field of flowers”, this is a square south of Piazza Navona famous for its market
  • Trastevere – district in central Rome, south of the Arno with a great vibe and gorgeous surroundings
  • Bar San Calisto – cafe bar in Trastevere that Denyse loves. Run by Marcello Forti, this bar has been the same since the 50s
  • Checco Er Carettiere – restaurant run by 4th generation of the same family in Trastevere. Great for Roman classics
  • Enoteca Ferrera – run by 2 sisters – one is sommelier, one is chef
  • Vinaietto – great place to try wine in Rome (usually standing)
  • Forno Roscioli – famous bakery of the Roscioli family in the center of Rome – great for Suppli and other delicious baked goods to take out
  • Forno de Campo di Fiori – amazing bakery in which to buy goods to take out
  • Fiore – great place to get Suppli in Rome, run by Neopolitan family
  • Pigneto, Tor Pignattara – Roman neighborhoods
  • Testaccio – the kitchen of Rome. A neighborhood not far from the Centro Historico to enjoy amazing food
  • Mercato Trionfale – market in the Prati district
  • Bona – pizza restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto that also does fried artichokes (Via del Portico d’Ottavia)
  • Da Francesco – amazing restaurant in the heart of the city

Food / Drink

  • Pizza al taglio – a Roman type of pizza by the slice, sold all over Rome
  • Suppli – Roman version of fried, stuffed rice balls with only mozzarella as the stuffing
  • Cicoria alla Romana – chicory is a very popular Roman side
  • Spritz Select – a spritz a bit like Aperol made with Select a bitter from the Veneto region

Words / Concepts

  • Friggitoria – shops in Naples selling fried snacks
  • Calendario Giubileo – the Jubilee calendar of events

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